Archive for May, 2008

Une Petite Douceur

Sometimes, you’re just in the mood for a little something sweet.

You could satisfy that craving with a frothy frappe from the nearest coffee shop, perhaps, or a black and white cookie from the corner deli. In a pinch, you could even have some bread with jam.

I would have been happy with any or all of those sweet solutions until I met Severine Trannoy, an elegant Frenchwoman who thinks nothing of making her own gnocchi or going to a small neighborhood bakery just to purchase croissants.

She introduced me to these mouth-watering morsels one rainy afternoon and let’s just say, I may never be satisfied with a Fig Newton again.

Fig French Kisses

Wash and dry two small, fresh figs.

Cut them in half.

Put a small piece of goat or feta cheese on each half.

Sprinkle with a little salt and a little pepper.

Garnish with fresh thyme.

Add a drop or two of walnut or olive oil.

Finish with a drizzle of honey on each slice.

Arrange in a glass baking dish and roast at 275 degrees until the cheese begins to bubble and melt.

Serves two.

These luscious treats are as uncomplicated to make as a piece of cinnamon toast, but as rich and gooey as a Cadbury Caramello. They’re also versatile. You could serve them to guests at a dinner party as easily as you could pass them around at a backyard family barbecue.

One taste and you’ll know why the French invented the phrase Mon Dieu.

The Soul of a Kitchen

I am never alone in my kitchen.

If I reach into my silverware drawer, my hand passes over the three iced tea spoons that are all that is left of my great-grandmother Julia’s silver service. The pattern is beautiful, elegant, 19th century. I never use the spoons, but their shape never fails to please me when I notice them.

Hanging on a magnetic hook from my stove is a pot holder my Aunt Helen crocheted in the shape and color of a slice of watermelon, complete with the shiny black seeds. I’ve had it since I was a kid and it’s now a little grubby from hanging on a hook near the stove. My aunt used to crochet wonderful little whimsies—my favorite being Christmas tree ornaments—little red and green wreaths, tiny ice skates of white yarn with paperclip blades. I do not know how to crochet and wonder if that skill, like hand-milking a cow, will be lost to future generations.

There’s a set of elegant wine glasses in a cupboard above my sink. They were a gift from a beau and despite their delicacy, proved more durable than the relationship. When I use them, I think of him and my thoughts are fond but not regretful.

The Revere ware pot I use for making soup was a wedding present to my parents, as was the tiny cast iron frying pan I use to make single-serving scrambled eggs. These two items are the backbone of my batterie de cuisine, enduring through the decades as cheap pots come and go. They’ll probably bury that cast iron skillet with me.

My brother gave me the pretty cut-crystal vase that sits on my kitchen table. He brought it back from a trip to Ireland. I love the way it catches the light and like to keep it there even when it’s not filled with flowers. Fresh-cut flowers make me really happy. My mother grew roses in our yard when I was a child, heavy, fragrant blossoms in sunset colors (never white). The scent of garden-grown roses is like an olfactory time machine for me.

I have a stack of platters on a back shelf. My sister made two of them on a visit to Color Me Mine. The designs are pop-art jolly, a stalk of bananas on an orange background, a bunch of grapes on a green background. I use the platters for summer barbecues and smile as I load them up with turkey burgers and chicken pieces.

My cookie jar is a mid-century McCoy in the shape of a pineapple. It is in perfect condition—bought on eBay to replace the one I took from my mother’s kitchen that had gotten chipped and cracked and fractured over the years as it was filled and refilled with peanut butter cookie and raisin cookies and chocolate chip cookies. (The only store-bought cookies I can remember eating as a child were Oreos and Fig Newtons. And Girl Scout cookies.)

I have many wooden spoons and even more bowls, some of them vintage designs from my grandmother’s mid-century kitchen. I don’t like a lot of machinery between me and my food and bowls and spoons, I find, are sufficient for most tasks. I won’t have a bread maker in the house. It’s not so much that I am clinging to the old-fashioned technique of hand-kneading bread as it is my fear that the machine would make bread-making so tempting I’d make a new loaf every day. And eat it. With butter. And unless you’re a farmer or a construction worker, those calories are going to catch up with you. But I love fresh-baked bread and butter. My paternal great-grandmother, Granny Franklin, made her own butter. It was ambrosial. You will never catch me cooking with margarine.

My kitchen is the soul of my house because it contains memories of all those who are dear to me.

I am never alone in my kitchen.

Sabrina Artel: My Most Memorable Meal

The best meal of all, the meal that I still remember the flavors of, is one that was created by my friends Amy and Wes Gillingham in their home. It was a cold snowy winter night and I was suffering from fresh food deprivation. I live in the woods outside a small town in the Catskill Mountains. It is gorgeous here but we definitely lack food choices. The only time I can cook with locally grown foods is during the summer and fall season when wild strawberries, ramps, watercress and blackberries are abundant in my garden. So that winter night’s meal at Amy and Wes’ was a total surprise. The meal began with plates full of home-grown carrots, beets and rutabagas lightly salted and served fresh from their root cellar. These weren’t ordinary carrots but thumb carrots, oddly shaped but very sweet and crunchy. Then the dilly beans and kimchi were brought out for tasting with fresh sourdough bread and fresh-made sweet butter.

Photo by Ted Waddell

As we feasted on the succulent root vegetables and the picked salads, Amy was kneading the pizza dough. Did I mention that my friends live off the grid, are organic farmers and are committed to living with a very small “footprint?” This pizza dough was absolutely smoky delicious as it was pulled from their Finish brick oven. The raw cheese came from a cow down the road, the sweet onions, oregano and garlic that topped the pizza came from their garden. The dessert was an amazing carrot cake made with fresh-laid eggs and milk and yogurt from Susie the cow.

It was a simple meal eaten with friends topped with laughter in the dead of winter when the temperature drops to the single digits. That meal helped me remember spring and its bursting greens; and reminded me why breaking bread with friends is an essential part of my life. Sabrina Artel’s radio show Trailer Talk has been described by the New York Times as “an unusual blend of theater, activism and broadcast journalism.” Broadcasting from a vintage trailer, she is “live on the road,” encouraging the democratic tradition of public dialogue on issues of importance to all Americans. Her program originates on WJFF Radio Catskill, the nation’s only Hydro-powered radio station. Podcasts are available on her website (http://www.sabrinaartel.com/) and on iTunes. She is the recipient of the NYSCA 2006 Individual Artist grant for her project, “In These Mountains” focusing on the complex and diverse community surrounding her hometown of Liberty, New York and a 2007 Puffin Foundation Grant for her project, “Liberty and Justice for All…?” exploring ideas around animal rights and advocacy.

***Photo by Ted Waddell